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Many Miles

May 27, 2012 By Jacqueline Briggs Martin

Wide open, windswept plain

We covered many miles since May 25 and the camp by the river. I want to fill them in because the scenery was varied.

Day 8 – May 26

We are in the Chang Tang Reserve! The wind is blowing so hard it moves my tennis shoes inside the tent, which is rather dicey because I have a can of pop sitting in one shoe. And it’s a gritty wind–not at all pleasant to be out in. I wonder if the Aru Basin will be this windy. So far at this new spot, I haven’t felt the altitude. We’ll see…I don’t want to get over-confident.

A dusty street in a town with large vehicles sporadically parked on the side.
Gertse.
A man in a red coat stands at the open back of a vehicle, talking to another man on the curb.
Jinpa and Mr. Lee negotiating repair.

This was an odd day for me. Gertze is a dirty place. I was groggy from the patch and just wanted to sleep anywhere. Heinrich was doing an explore around Gertze and I was sitting at the base of a lamppost dozing. I thought what have I done, left my home and family, and everyone I love to come to this remote place? But tonight we are camped inside the Chang Tang. Tomorrow we will reach the Aru Basin…

What are my goals for our time in the Aru Basin?

  • Do some exploring (after I get acclimated)
  • See chiru
  • Come up with a good title
  • Let the Aru Basin come to me (whatever that means)

Day 10 – May 27 @ 3:20 p.m.

We are in the Aru Basin! On three sides we see high hills and snow-covered peaks. On the fourth side Aru Tso (Lake). Jinpa has been asking. There are no chiru near the lake. We did see several batches of males on the way here today, several batches of Kiang (wild donkeys) but no Tibetan gazelles. Jinpa hired a nomad ($50.00) with a motorcycle to show us the way to the Aru Basin. …He was wearing the traditional nomad chuba with a red scarf around his head and a motorcycle helmet.

… Ok. What does it do to/for my chiru story that I am here? I can smell the dryness, see the vastness of even this little section. Even if it doesn’t change a word of the story I feel like by making this trip I’ve earned the right to tell the story.
– Jacqueline


Life is interrupting this trip. Rich and I are going to see our Madison grandkids run at the school picnic (a personal holiday for them, which we could not miss). More tomorrow of the Tibet trip. Since starting this re-visit I have emailed our guide – and heard back from him! That report tomorrow.

Kids running at a school picnic, a small marching band behind them.
A bracelet for every lap.
Kids running at a school picnic, a small marching band behind them.
All winners

Filed Under: News Tagged With: The Chiru of High Tibet

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